If the feed and drain are setup properly then the oil will circulate perfectly fine.
Every factory turbocharged vehicle i have seen recommends a 3 minute idle after driving.
Turbo Rotary Mazda Minitruck Build
- Thread starter mymmeryloss
- Start date
Every factory turbocharged vehicle i have seen recommends a 3 minute idle after driving.
hmm that seems long
oil might circulate just fine, but after you beat on the car and get the turbo super hot and dont let it cool down you will get coking regardless. purpose of the turbo timer after all
I should add that a water/oil cooled turbo doesnt need a cool down period according to the research i have done.
I should also add that it depends on how hard you are on the car to justify a longer cool down period.
I should also add that it depends on how hard you are on the car to justify a longer cool down period.
What brand of turbo? Ball bearing or journal and are they just oil cooled?
I would like to also know if theyre running turbo timers and on what setting and also what brand.
that wouldnt make sense, the issue is the pumps stop running so the oil sits there and boils and cooks itself causing the ports to become clogged
that second part is the key to all of this
Not true. Well partially true for the oil part. Its the same as the fan running after you shut off your car during the summer after running your air conditioner.
If the car remains running and heat soak occurs(which is the reason coking happens) then temperatures under tge hood will increase. Coolant circulates and the fan will kick on therefore cooling the turbo keeping oil from baking(coking) in the passages. There is also the option of having a pump that circulates oil to the turbos or an electric water pump that can circulate on a switch for extreme conditions.
I don't wait for my car anymore, generally I do not beat on my car right up to the point of me parking. Normal driving with good airflow through the bay will drive the temps down pretty quick. Granted I am only refering to water and oil cooled turbo cars. Turbo destruction happens at both ends, when shutting down and startup. Having a way to prime your oil lines just prior to startup is the best way to prevent damage IMO.
Remember that turbine design and manifold design play a huge part is how fast heat dissipates. Larger a/r housing with good flow will pull heat out faster. The type of metal used can make a difference too.
I forgot what I was talking about. I guess my point would be is each setup is different, so how long you cool down shouldn't be a general thing. If it takes my car 10 seconds to get down to normal temps when I stop, then thats how long I will wait.
Remember that turbine design and manifold design play a huge part is how fast heat dissipates. Larger a/r housing with good flow will pull heat out faster. The type of metal used can make a difference too.
I forgot what I was talking about. I guess my point would be is each setup is different, so how long you cool down shouldn't be a general thing. If it takes my car 10 seconds to get down to normal temps when I stop, then thats how long I will wait.
And thats y i am leaning towards a timer that has an auto function that takes a reading off of the alternator and calculates for you how long it will run before shut off.
Im not planning on being hard on this truck, but i know i will lol.
Gotta have some safe guards in place.
Thanks for the input guys!
Im not planning on being hard on this truck, but i know i will lol.
Gotta have some safe guards in place.
Thanks for the input guys!
Dropped off my radiator and water pump to have bungs welded on for my AN radiator hoses.
Hopefully have them back soon.
Hopefully have them back soon.
nice!!
I think i just may have a good update tonight!
you bought an escort for john?
^^Thats a good idea. Somebody get his address. We can plan it in here cuz i know he never checks my build thread.
Well i got some s**t done today.
Took the curved sheetmetal tranny tunnel kit that i bought and flattened them out.
Double checking clearance on my pedals.
Trim to fit.
Ready for welding.
Im probably going to bring the driveline tunnel down a bit, but im happy with the progress today. Just a few more things and i can fully weld it up!
Took the curved sheetmetal tranny tunnel kit that i bought and flattened them out.
Double checking clearance on my pedals.
Trim to fit.
Ready for welding.
Im probably going to bring the driveline tunnel down a bit, but im happy with the progress today. Just a few more things and i can fully weld it up!
All win right there
wow defiantly all win, looks awesome.