Turbo vs. Nitrous
- Thread starter banzai
- Start date
yeah, but if you have a button and your still holding it, he is right. :Still spraying:RICDOGG said:
I had my momentary on button where the A/C compessor switch used to be. It was actuated with my right hand therefore when I shifted I had to let go of the button.
i dont understand why you people are making it harder than it needs to be.
If you use nitrous be smart about it.
but since you kids need to be spoonfed like little babies here's a couple of BASIC's that I've learned with my experience with nitrous.
from here on out. nitrous will be shortened to nos
If you people disagree with what I say you can kiss my ass because I've had nothing but good experinces with things done my way (going on 4 years now)
1) dont jet higher than 1/2 your stock HP.
.....If you have a 160HP motor, dont go higher than an 80 shot...if you have a 100hp motor....get a new motor
2) get a fuel pressure guage.
.....you need to be sure that your fuel is up to snuff before you start adding more oxygen. the gauge will help you in this matter. a/f or egt is a good compliment to this.
3) if you find that you like to gas until the rev limiter
.....a)learn to drive, because if you're doing it already..using nos is just going to get you to the cutoff sooner.
.....b)get an RPM Activated switch. either wire it so it opens the circuit at a certain RPM (this gives you control of what rpm you activate the nos, but cuts it off once a certain RPM has been reached) or get a 2 stage (nos activates at RPM1 shuts off at RPM2)
4) if only running a single stage shot, do not use nos in 1st* or 5th gear.
....this is just a precaution. 1st gear you'll reach rev limit faster which has already been mentioned as a nono
....5th gear is basically useless and can can cause an overly lean condition because the nos in the manifold will build since the engine doesnt rev as fast
* if you have an rpm activated switch. i don't see a problem with nos'n in 1st gear. (i do it)
5) you can never have too many switches. make sure you use a fuel cutoff switch, throttle switch, master switch.
that's the basics for making a pretty reliable starter system for your car.
HARDCORE section:
1) Bottle Warmer and pressure gauge, you need that bottle to have at the minimum 900psi...if you dont..turn tthe heater on.
2) purge. mostly foo foo...but it'll clear the line of air so you know you're getting the full effect of nos when you hit the button.
3) more stages.
On my legend. i set the 1st stage to get off the line with a 40 shot. that was controlled by a button on my center console. stage 2 induced another 40 shot giving me a total of ~an 80 shot.so i had 2 independant system working at either time
some might be thinking..why not just get a progressive controller?
here's why....a progressive controller just modulates the solenoid. so if you jetted an 80 shot..and you wanted a 40 shot.....the controller would just rapidly open and close the solenois to get the for shot...alot of wear on the solenoid IMO. I just decided to run independant systems and jet them smaller, so i could have them either open, or closed at my control.
i've lost my train of thought. so im done for now
If you use nitrous be smart about it.
but since you kids need to be spoonfed like little babies here's a couple of BASIC's that I've learned with my experience with nitrous.
from here on out. nitrous will be shortened to nos
If you people disagree with what I say you can kiss my ass because I've had nothing but good experinces with things done my way (going on 4 years now)
1) dont jet higher than 1/2 your stock HP.
.....If you have a 160HP motor, dont go higher than an 80 shot...if you have a 100hp motor....get a new motor
2) get a fuel pressure guage.
.....you need to be sure that your fuel is up to snuff before you start adding more oxygen. the gauge will help you in this matter. a/f or egt is a good compliment to this.
3) if you find that you like to gas until the rev limiter
.....a)learn to drive, because if you're doing it already..using nos is just going to get you to the cutoff sooner.
.....b)get an RPM Activated switch. either wire it so it opens the circuit at a certain RPM (this gives you control of what rpm you activate the nos, but cuts it off once a certain RPM has been reached) or get a 2 stage (nos activates at RPM1 shuts off at RPM2)
4) if only running a single stage shot, do not use nos in 1st* or 5th gear.
....this is just a precaution. 1st gear you'll reach rev limit faster which has already been mentioned as a nono
....5th gear is basically useless and can can cause an overly lean condition because the nos in the manifold will build since the engine doesnt rev as fast
* if you have an rpm activated switch. i don't see a problem with nos'n in 1st gear. (i do it)
5) you can never have too many switches. make sure you use a fuel cutoff switch, throttle switch, master switch.
that's the basics for making a pretty reliable starter system for your car.
HARDCORE section:
1) Bottle Warmer and pressure gauge, you need that bottle to have at the minimum 900psi...if you dont..turn tthe heater on.
2) purge. mostly foo foo...but it'll clear the line of air so you know you're getting the full effect of nos when you hit the button.
3) more stages.
On my legend. i set the 1st stage to get off the line with a 40 shot. that was controlled by a button on my center console. stage 2 induced another 40 shot giving me a total of ~an 80 shot.so i had 2 independant system working at either time
some might be thinking..why not just get a progressive controller?
here's why....a progressive controller just modulates the solenoid. so if you jetted an 80 shot..and you wanted a 40 shot.....the controller would just rapidly open and close the solenois to get the for shot...alot of wear on the solenoid IMO. I just decided to run independant systems and jet them smaller, so i could have them either open, or closed at my control.
i've lost my train of thought. so im done for now
if you dont run any type of throttle switch, you are just plain ignorant.Tainted Ramen said:yes I am right. If you do the install that way, there is no microswitch on the throttlebody....and what the hell would any switch on the throttlebody do if it was direct port?
it doesnt matter if you run direct port, dry, or wet. you run the circuit through the microswitch. a correct install will have a master arm switch. you then run it through the throttle switch. then subsequently, out to your solenoids.
if you don't have it run this way, seriously suggest you other CC members take whatever this member's advice about running nitrous with caution
RICDOGG said:
Relax, that was like 6 years ago. I doubt many in the 90's had very many failsafes on their Nitrous systems. I bought a used system and used what I was provided. It was enough experience with NOS to not use them again. I'll use a system like Venom or Zex next time that have said failsafes built in.
ok.. well lesson learned i guess..Beelzebubba said:
but i think it's more user error then the brand...i think NOS is an excellent brand...I've had a wonderful experience with them. & their tech support is outstanding.
& in the civic i have....an NX bottle/lines/solenoids, ZEX nitrous controller, and a NOS purge....go figure :-)
I had solenoid problems with NOS. One of the guys at Harry's Hot Rod Shop said that, " NOS is just like that, Live with it..."
A friend has a Nitrous Works system and no solenoid problems.
Never heard any solenoid problems with Venom or Zex either.
A friend has a Nitrous Works system and no solenoid problems.
Never heard any solenoid problems with Venom or Zex either.
