what do you guys think between turbo d16y8 or b16a 00 si motor

[turbowhat_n_dat]

^^^^what he said=D power

 

[Silver-Shooter]

b16 all the way

 

[PaganCivic]

I already did the B16A conversion in my 95 Civic EX coupe and I am looking to do a turbo next. Since the B16A has a lower compression ratio throwing a turbo of the correct size will boost you higher than you could get with the B18C5 Type-R motor. A great book to use as a resource is Sport Compact Car's Engine and Driveline Handbook. They tell you how to put all the right parts together to achieve the desired outcome. Remember to keep your head on your shoulders and not in your a$$. You don't really need a 9-second car for the street. Look for a smaller turbo that will spool up quicker and give you more bottom end power than top end. I don't know about you but I don't usually rev my engine out to 7000 rpm. You can get it so it will produce around 200-300 hp right from 2000rpm! That is enough to squash you back in your seat something fierce!

Good luck with it and let me know how you make out. Don't forget to do the rest of the car so it can handle the extra speed! IE. Shocks, bushing kit, anti-sway bars, etc.

I am trying to put all the parts together without a kit, like the guys in honda tuning did. They were able to turbo theirs for $850 using scavanged parts. You are also going to need a new ecu like the Hondata. Don't go higher than 10psi and you won't have to do anything really to the B16 engine besides new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, gaskets and belts just to be safe. BEWARE OF DETONATION!!! And grab some adjustable cam sprockets while your at it, they will help squeeze that extra power out of the motor.

Good luck

 

[ben]

here's the way I look at it... why push your d engine to give you every hp it'll give you when you can just swap it out with a b engine, not work the engine as hard and get the same hp!
longer engine life if you swap.

 

[Silver-Shooter]

I am trying to put all the parts together without a kit, like the guys in honda tuning did. They were able to turbo theirs for $850 using scavanged parts. You are also going to need a new ecu like the Hondata. Don't go higher than 10psi and you won't have to do anything really to the B16 engine besides new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, gaskets and belts just to be safe. BEWARE OF DETONATION!!! And grab some adjustable cam sprockets while your at it, they will help squeeze that extra power out of the motor.

Good luck

thats a good route, but CA residents can't do this without running into issues with the law.

 

[ben]

Read closer before you respond. I said he could turbo the D16 and that would be close to where he would be with a B16a1 with I/H/E. he said nothing about turboing the B16 otherwise I wouldnt have said that.

how about you re-read your own post stupid!
it's plain as day!... "You should do the swap, get I/H/E and some other small mods and you'll be right up where you would have been with a d16 turbo. then save up and turbo the b16" = WASTE OF MONEY!

to get to 250whp out of the d16 you're going to need to do alot of work besides just bolt on turbo and intercooler. You should do the swap, get I/H/E and some other small mods and you'll be right up where you would have been with a d16 turbo. then save up and turbo the b16

 

[ben]

As I previously stated do the swap if the s**t is free, doesnt take a rocket scientist to figure out gaining free hp is the best way to go............

Now I will post this up here as the last post stopped when I posted it up and no one justified my theory.

A lot safer, to swap in a B series, I'm imagining nothing could ever go wrong with this motor, its indestructible!!!

I have this thing with dollar to horsepower ratio.

I have to ask, who can really justify spending say $3000.00 for say 40hp gain??? Then gain modest amounts of hp through purchasing bolt ons that include I/H/E creating say a well respected 30hp more for another $1000.00??? (considering you do the swap for $3k and other work yourself)

$3k / 40hp = $75.00 per 1 horsepower --------------------swap
$1k / 30hp = $33.00 per 1 horsepower --------------------bolt ons

Now your out $4,000.00 and gained 70hp @ $57.00 per 1 horsepower -----not really a deal if you think about it.

Then say what everyone says: add a turbo to your B18c and you got mad horsepower.

$3k / 100hp = $30.00 per 1 horsepower -----------------turbo kit for B18c

Now your out $7k and gained 170hp @ $41.00 per 1 horsepower -------still not a deal, but hey you spent $7,000.00 and now have 300 crank horsepower or 255 wheel horsepower.

================================================== ======================
Or keep your D/B series for example purposes I will use the D. Have 130chp or 105whp.

Spend $3,000.000 on a turbo kit and $1000.00 on an exhaust system, fuel pump, oil pump, water pump, fuel filter, new head bolts, and timing belt. (Considering you do the work yourself also)

Turbo kit gaining RELIABLE hp @ 205whp or an actual gain of 100hp
Exhaust bolt on gaining a respectable 10hp.

$3k / 100hp = $30.00 per 1 horsepower -------------turbo kit
$1k / 10hp = $100.00 per 1 horsepower -------------exhaust

Now your out $4k and gained 110hp @ $36.00 per 1 horsepower ------still no deal for $ to hp ratios. However, you spent $4,000.00 and now have 240chp or 210whp.

Now considering you are 80-100 # lighter with the D engine vs. the B engine this almost makes up for that 45whp that you don't gain saving you $3,000.00.

Or use that $3,000.00 to build your block and btm end and put a complete head job on giving you another 100hp. Making your $7,000.00 investment $33.00 per 1 horsepower still being reliable by adding a dual stage boost controller running 12psi daily and 18-20psi when you need it to kick the s**t out of that modestly modded B series for the same cost factor.

Could someone justify this to me!!!!!!!!
================================================== ======================

Then you get into the car down time which is a whole other story.

yes but for that same 3k I would get a b18c1 (and yes, I see them sell for 3k all the time)
I got 102hp in my eg so I'd get about a 83hp gain going with the gsr engine.

 

[turbowhat_n_dat]

originally stated by ben: "here's the way I look at it... why push your d engine to give you every hp it'll give you when you can just swap it out with a b engine, not work the engine as hard and get the same hp! longer engine life if you swap."

A: true, well not really the same hp as I compared that out for you. But I'll do it again since you didnt quite catch it the first time: 160chp stock B16 + 70hp gain taking you to 230chp or 184whp on $4k. 130chp stock D16y8 + 100 + 10 gain taking you to 240chp or 192whp on the same $4k. Considering you are 80-100 # lighter with the D engine vs. the B engine and have a slight gain of 8 hp or the amount of a good I/H/E put on the B you will most likely kill the B in the end.
You have more hp and less weight, tell me again how exactly you plan to beat the D for the same cost factor...................
=================================================================
again originally stated by ben: "yes but for that same 3k I would get a b18c1 (and yes, I see them sell for 3k all the time) I got 102hp in my eg so I'd get about a 83hp gain going with the gsr engine."


This is true, 83hp giving you a total of 185chp or 148whp. Wow, yeha, you gained modest horsepower for $3k. Lets do a comparison for you as well:

$3k / 83hp = $36.00 per 1 horsepower

add I/H/E spending another $1k and adding that same 30hp, giving you a total now of 215chp or 172whp on your B. Now your out the same $4k as my other comparison and $36.00 per 1 horsepower. You still SHOULD change the oil pump, water pump, timing belt, fuel filter with a swap spending another $600.00 taking you to $41.00 per 1 horsepower. This is all assuming you did the swap yourself!!! Did you??? If not I can figure that out for you to, about $800.00 for the entire swap, bringing your total to $5400.00 and changing your power to $ ratio to $48.00 per 1 horsepower.

or

D series stock w/ Turbo kit gaining RELIABLE hp @ 205whp or an actual gain of 100hp
Exhaust (along with all the necessarys) bolt on gaining a respectable 10hp.

=================================================================

Or forget about getting the I/H/E as you already spent $3k on your motor swap gaining 83hp giving you this: $36.00 per 1 horsepower. Giving you civic now 180chp or 144whp.

Or comparing to the $3k spent on your B to the $3k spent on the D adding hp to 250chp and 200whp.

Now your B18c1 is @ 144whp and the D16y8 is @ 200whp................D power baby!!!
=================================================================

I'll break that down for you:

$4k on the B18c1 gaining 113hp @ a cost of $36.00 per 1 horsepower; 215chp or 172whp
+80# weight gain

$4k on a D16y_ gaining 110hp @ a cost of $36.00 per 1 horsepower; 240chp or 210whp
no weight gain
=================================================================



I guess I'm still confused as to where you justified swapping. Please explain..............

 

[ben]

but like I said, you really have to pust the D to get that power. Nothing wrong with D engine. oh yeah, I don't have the swap yet. I was talking about the c1 I plan to get.

Here's where I'm at.
I have a d15 that has 150,000 miles on it. I would rebuild it before putting the turbo on so there I am up at 3k. So for me I look at it this way.

D engine:
3k =rebuild
3k =turbo
=6k

B engine:
3k =swap (do it myself)
3k =turbo
=6k

Now the b engine can take a little more boost than a d so that makes up for the weight.
I think the b would kick the d.

 

[turbowhat_n_dat]

Thats a hell of a rebuild, what do you plan to do to it, get it sleeved (not needed), knife edge the crank (also not needed), get a moroso pan, and ___________?

Toss in a btm end kit including Crower rods/JE pistons/rings/pins/locks/bearings/ARP bolts $900.00
Toss on a built up exospeed head with turbo cam, resurface, all valves, springs, retainers, 3 way valve job, new valve seals about $1500.00

Still got $600.00 to play with, throw in a clutch and flywheel, or ud pulleys and your sitting @ the same $6k.

Comparing that out for you:

B = 180chp + 100 turbo = 280chp or 224whp

or

D= 102chp + 100 turbo + 100 btm end/head = 302chp or 242whp ---w/o figuring in the added hp for a flywheel and/or pulleys etc........

seriously you have to see my point, it still works out for you in the end with the D having 18 more hp and 80-100 less # of weight, all on a reliable street driven D15, a D15, not a played out B. Think of the respect you will get from ppl when you pull over after the race and open the hood of your ride cause he no longer believes you have a D under the hood since you just killed his B. Mad props to the D builders!!!!!

 

[ben]

very true. but like I said, you really have to push the d engine to get that power.
I don't want to work an engine to death. that's why I'll go with the b and still have room to add more power if I wanted to. I'm all about engine life. I plan to keep my car for life and I want the engine to last a LONG time.

 

[turbowhat_n_dat]

still being reliable by adding a dual stage boost controller running 6psi daily and 12-15psi when you need it to kick the s**t out of that modestly modded B series for the same cost factor. NO need to push the engine all the time, run it modestly @ the 6psi, then flip the s**t when you run into some schmoe who thinks he is better than you. Anyway, good luck with the swap, hope it all works out for you and dont spend too much $...............

 

[Silver-Shooter]

t he d series has great SOHC motors and all but arguing that they are better than any b-series is kinda silly.

 

[vi3tboi714]

dude just get a b18b and boost it...best boosting setup rite therer for ya

 

[turbowhat_n_dat]

t he d series has great SOHC motors and all but arguing that they are better than any b-series is kinda silly.

Simply put this is no arguement, neither am I stating that the D is better than the B if you are refering to me. I have simply given this subject a lot of thought and offer up my $ to hp ratios. And actual hp gain with the same exact amount of $. In case you can't read or you just happened to miss my first post on this subject I told the poster to go with the B since it is all free!!!

 

[Silver-Shooter]

Simply put this is no arguement, neither am I stating that the D is better than the B if you are refering to me. I have simply given this subject a lot of thought and offer up my $ to hp ratios. And actual hp gain with the same exact amount of $. In case you can't read or you just happened to miss my first post on this subject I told the poster to go with the B since it is all free!!!

actually i was referring to this whole thread's main question but since you wanna get all pissy...

 

[turbowhat_n_dat]

Anal much!!!

 

[ocbasbalburg]

To get that much hp, you have to at least swap first and have a lot of money on hand

 

[child_racer]

To get that much hp, you have to at least swap first and have a lot of money on hand

wrong answer......refer yourself back to my first post in this thread on page 2. Its very easy and possible to get that power out of the D series without completely building it....everyone is just so scared to try it because its a SOHC motor. Its been done time and time again

 

[Tdog_101]

in my humble opinion, i would never really buy a turbo for a d16.. I mean im not sure about this but isnt it true that a turbo for a d16 wouldnt really do all that much (in comparison with say a turbo on a b16 or b18). And thats a LOT of money in the hole. When you are talking about the SOHC engine, isnt it a better option to to spend a meager 400 bucks and get a 75 shot of nitrous. (I would get the kind that is activated by the throttle and not a little button) For the price, isnt that much better? That is alot of horses for 400 bucks? and couldnt it beat a turbo d16?? Im willing to bet so!

yeah, you would be suprised of how much turbo on a dy16 can do, it will make 180 hp to the wheels @5 psi which is ran on stock internals