Stealthy's Turbo GSR Build Up Thread

[watisjdm]

sweet....def keep us updated whenever u do something...motor is Bad f**kin ass dude

 

[Destroy]

Break it in on the dyno

 

[stealthy]

thanks alot guys. i wont be breaking it in on the dyno because i am still waiting to finish my turbo kit, and i need the car to drive right now, so driving it on the street will have to do.

but, i will keep the updates coming, i gotta sell my other car first and then i can afford to finish the turbo kit and get er' done. but im happy where im at right now for the time being, plus i still have a 75 shot of nitrous for the tough guys around here haha

 

[stealthy]

oh, btw, i havent got to drive it yet...................i have to replace the rear driver side caliper. while it was sitting in my garage i had the ebrake on for about 2 months, and it locked up on me. it was so hard to remove, i had to pry it off with all i had lol, that car was NOT moving. i took it off and the seal was all cracked so im assuming that is the cause. im going to replace that today with a whole brand new caliper, and should be able to put my first 25 miles on it tonight and change the oil.

 

[STR_TopGun]

cool im glad that you got to get the motor up and running

 

[snozepp147]

looks good, why didn't you paint the tranny housing black like the longblock?


and have you looked at this break in site? it's pretty convincing that you should start out by breaking it in hard to properly seal the rings.

check it out
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

[stealthy]

thanks str!


snozepp - thanks alot. VERY good and convincing article. since break in starts tonight on my motor, i will be following those guidlines by motoman in your link!

and for anyone interested....heres a quick outline of the article

1. warm motor up completely
2. run hard through gears 2, 3, 4. short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. let the motor (vacuum) slow you down, dont use brakes. do this for 20 miles.
3. change oil (NO SYNTHETIC for 1500 miles). get out all of the contaminents from break in.
4. you want about 200 miles or so of this kind of driving (step 2) driving a steady speed on the highway will not help seat the piston rings (the whole goal of good motor break in. good seal - reduce blow by).

at this point, i will probably change the oil again and begin my regular oil changing process (every 2-3k miles). since i am also breaking in a new clutch, i wont be shifting hard for the first 500 miles.

 

[snozepp147]

yeah that article is really good. i'll be breaking my rebuilt gsr block in that way when i install it. thats impressive how much better the rings seal if you run it hard right out of the gate and use no synthetic at first. it makes sense and has been proven by many people.

in fact the reason my rings are shot after driving the motor for only 1,000 after the rebuilt could be because it was broken in *very* softly, no vtec for the first 300 miles. the rings rings set based on that and then when i started driving it hard, they didn't have the same compression.

good luck with the break in process and let me know how it goes, as i'll be doing this with a rebuilt motor.

 

[stealthy]

yeah that article is really good. i'll be breaking my rebuilt gsr block in that way when i install it. thats impressive how much better the rings seal if you run it hard right out of the gate and use no synthetic at first. it makes sense and has been proven by many people.

in fact the reason my rings are shot after driving the motor for only 1,000 after the rebuilt could be because it was broken in *very* softly, no vtec for the first 300 miles. the rings rings set based on that and then when i started driving it hard, they didn't have the same compression.

good luck with the break in process and let me know how it goes, as i'll be doing this with a rebuilt motor.

yeah you are probably right, thats why breaking it in hard gets the best seal. ill keep you updated as to how this works for me

 

[EG-Owns you]

oh, btw, i havent got to drive it yet...................i have to replace the rear driver side caliper. while it was sitting in my garage i had the ebrake on for about 2 months, and it locked up on me. it was so hard to remove, i had to pry it off with all i had lol, that car was NOT moving. i took it off and the seal was all cracked so im assuming that is the cause. im going to replace that today with a whole brand new caliper, and should be able to put my first 100 miles on it tonight and change the oil.

moron wtf were you thinking you need to jack it up on all 4 jackstands so the tires are off the ground so the breaks dont get stuck learned the hard way eh?? lol

 

[stealthy]

moron wtf were you thinking you need to jack it up on all 4 jackstands so the tires are off the ground so the breaks dont get stuck learned the hard way eh?? lol

well, i wasnt thinking. not to mention i didnt think itd take this long (as it shouldnt). oh well, atleast i have a new caliper right? ha.

 

[EG-Owns you]

i guess but could of saved money if you were thinking lol

should of seen after the first 3 weeks o s**t mabey i should prop it all up lol i dont give me this bullshit aww i dont have 4 jackstands becuase i had cinderblocks and a pice of wood for my back stands lol ghetto FTW

 

[stealthy]

lol.

 

[EG-Owns you]

lol.

ya b***h you know im right EG owns you ahaha glad to hear it running now my car is now sitting under blankets in the grage lol

 

[stealthy]

ya b***h you know im right EG owns you ahaha glad to hear it running now my car is now sitting under blankets in the grage lol

might as well keep it warm since you arent working on it.










EG got owned

 

[EG-Owns you]

might as well keep it warm since you arent working on it.










EG got owned

ahahahha the car gets started up every week and is sitting on 4 jackstands so the E-break doesnt freeze and my car likes to stay warm mabey i should give it a big pillow to ahah

 

[stealthy]

i got the caliper fixed, so now the brakes work! lol. ive got the first 20 miles under my belt for the break in process, then came home and changed the oil. you could see a tiny bit of metal "flavor" to the oil, as expected. finally bled the clutch (again), coolant, and the brakes too. i def need to get used to no PS again. and for those who dont know, i removed the AC and cruise too.

so....

the goods....
- the car ran good. pulled really hard. harder than before, which suprised me with it being 9:1cr.
- vtec is really loud now, and noticable. idk why, i/h/e was not changed. lol
- idles good
- ITS DRIVABLE!!! LOL


the bads....
- the temperature guage is reading really weird. took awhile for it to get up to half way, and then all of a sudden dropped to nothing, and went back and forth in between. not sure why yet, however the fan DOES kick on. thats good.
- it was reading VERY VERY little oil on the dipstick during the break in. after changing the oil, it now reads where it should, weird.
- there is a small oil leak when it is running, noticable while its sitting. i cant find where it is coming from, so ill be looking more into that.
- there is a slight "hop" when taking off in first gear at low rpms. idk if its the axles (same i took out) or the ball joints, or what. i need to figure that out too.

 

[ImportFan1]

hell yeah. she is finally back out on the road.

 

[stealthy]

yup. man, i have never drivin a car in that mannor before lol. for 20 miles, i basically did 2,3,4 gear pulls (separatly). up to about 7600 rpms (a couple times) or about 6500, and letting it slow down on its own all the way back to about 3000.

 

[qwikxr]

i got the caliper fixed, so now the brakes work! lol. ive got the first 20 miles under my belt for the break in process, then came home and changed the oil. you could see a tiny bit of metal "flavor" to the oil, as expected. finally bled the clutch (again), coolant, and the brakes too. i def need to get used to no PS again. and for those who dont know, i removed the AC and cruise too.

so....

the goods....
- the car ran good. pulled really hard. harder than before, which suprised me with it being 9:1cr.
- vtec is really loud now, and noticable. idk why, i/h/e was not changed. lol
- idles good
- ITS DRIVABLE!!! LOL


the bads....
- the temperature guage is reading really weird. took awhile for it to get up to half way, and then all of a sudden dropped to nothing, and went back and forth in between. not sure why yet, however the fan DOES kick on. thats good.

Probably air moving around in the system, and pockets of air reaching the CTS. This will make the temp gauge move erratically.

- it was reading VERY VERY little oil on the dipstick during the break in. after changing the oil, it now reads where it should, weird.

Was it full, to start with? Or did your small leak lose that much oil?

- there is a small oil leak when it is running, noticable while its sitting. i cant find where it is coming from, so ill be looking more into that.

Where does it "look" like it's coming from? front? back? either side? Hope it isn't a rear main seal

- there is a slight "hop" when taking off in first gear at low rpms. idk if its the axles (same i took out) or the ball joints, or what. i need to figure that out too.

Make sure the axles are seated properly. I had a slight jerky kinda vibration when I first did my swap, and one axle was about 6-8mm from being completely seated..

Awesome that you've got 'er running and driving! let us see the fruits of your labor!