for the temp. gauge being wierd- try checking the voltage on the wires going to the coolant temp sensor.
glad the break in process is going well. i can't wait to try it.
glad the break in process is going well. i can't wait to try it.
Stealthy's Turbo GSR Build Up Thread
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thanks guys.....
i re-bled the coolant, so we will see if this makes any differences.
yes, the oil was full to start with. i was kinda worried that it lost all of it, but luckily it did not, as i changed the oil there was very close to the amount there should be. but, like i said, its reading now
the leak looks like its coming from the driver side. either on the side or the back. im thinking maybe the oil sending unit? god i hope its not the oil pump.
i will recheck the axles, thanks. qwik, which end where they out on?
snozepp - what SHOULD the voltage be, you know?
i re-bled the coolant, so we will see if this makes any differences.
yes, the oil was full to start with. i was kinda worried that it lost all of it, but luckily it did not, as i changed the oil there was very close to the amount there should be. but, like i said, its reading now
the leak looks like its coming from the driver side. either on the side or the back. im thinking maybe the oil sending unit? god i hope its not the oil pump.
i will recheck the axles, thanks. qwik, which end where they out on?
snozepp - what SHOULD the voltage be, you know?
i just found this:
TW or ECT sensor- (engine coolant temperature sensor) voltage should be about 3.0 volts @ 60 deg F and between .55 & .7 volts @ normal operating temp. If the voltage is above .8 volts at normal operating temp, will cause rich mixture and high idle speed. May not set a code because it is not far enough out of its operating parameters. **Also this sensor will not read temperature correctly if coolant is low. (beware)
the last part about not reading correctly sounds like it may apply to your situation. just get a voltometer and check the voltage when the engine is cold and then again when its at normal operating temp to see if it agrees with those numbers.
TW or ECT sensor- (engine coolant temperature sensor) voltage should be about 3.0 volts @ 60 deg F and between .55 & .7 volts @ normal operating temp. If the voltage is above .8 volts at normal operating temp, will cause rich mixture and high idle speed. May not set a code because it is not far enough out of its operating parameters. **Also this sensor will not read temperature correctly if coolant is low. (beware)
the last part about not reading correctly sounds like it may apply to your situation. just get a voltometer and check the voltage when the engine is cold and then again when its at normal operating temp to see if it agrees with those numbers.
^^ awesome man, i will do that tomorrow....its so cold right now lol 19 degrees, and im skinny! plus, im going to go play beer pong in a minute haha.
updates..
temp gauge is acting a little better i think, its just hard to tell bc its so cold out and that could affect it too.
i found out where the leak is coming from. one of the bolt holes on the oil pan. so since i JUST changed the oil and only have like 25 miles on this change, im gonna keep and eye on it (its very little) and hurry and put 200 miles on it so i can change it again, and put a spare oil pan on. im pretty sure a b16 oil pan will work right?
tomorrow im gonna check on the axle (?) situation
updates..
temp gauge is acting a little better i think, its just hard to tell bc its so cold out and that could affect it too.
i found out where the leak is coming from. one of the bolt holes on the oil pan. so since i JUST changed the oil and only have like 25 miles on this change, im gonna keep and eye on it (its very little) and hurry and put 200 miles on it so i can change it again, and put a spare oil pan on. im pretty sure a b16 oil pan will work right?
tomorrow im gonna check on the axle (?) situation
ImportFan1
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hows the car running?
its running great, clutch should be about broke in now. ive got about 480 miles on it now. im finally getting used to this 7.5lb flywheel, but i LOVE it. im gonna start spraying a 75 shot tomorrow, ill try to get a vid. i had an exhaust leak, thinking it was the donut gasket between the cat and downpipe, but as i was changing the oil for the third time i noticed 1 of the 3 nuts that holds the downpipe to the header was missing and the other 2 were lose. thankfully it doesnt sound like a cammed out 5.0 anymore lmao. the idle keeps going a little low so i gotta work on that, and the temp guage seems to be ok now, however i havent driven it long enough to have the fan come on, and the guage never goes over 1/4 of the way, and before the fan would come on at 1/2 :s oh, and no more oil leak....to my knowledge.
it pulls REALLY good though, and im still running stock header and exhaust. im gonna adjust the valves bc i think they need it, they are tapping just a bit
it pulls REALLY good though, and im still running stock header and exhaust. im gonna adjust the valves bc i think they need it, they are tapping just a bit
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glad to hear. hows the turbo part coming?
i still dont have a job.....and i just spent about $500 on house stuff bc im moving to florida in march. right now preparing to move out for the first time, let alone 1000 miles away with knowing no one is more important than boosting my car, UNFORTUNATLY. it sucks.glad your b***h is runing finally. your going to get it tuned before you spray right tuned for spray i hope. i hope you at least street tuned it becuase the motor is now a diffrent motor then what that ecu would run right after my s**t was built i took it to the dyno for a street tune tell i buy my nitrous 
stealthy said:
tisk tisk tisk your motor probably hates you lol i would be sure to get it tuned. lol i wouldnt want to hurt a newly built motor man if i were you if you dont have the money to get it tuned hold off on it for a bit becuase if somthing does go wrong your gonna be pissed like i was lol. sprayed on an untuned B16 and it went kabooooom!!!
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i thought you got one in Columbus?
my motor loved it. what kinda kit did you useEG-Owns you said:
no way. slowmotion? i would never go there. to get it tuned for boost im going to Evans in PA. i had a crome street tune on my lsvtec??ImportFan1 said:
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sorry. i meant a job in c-bus.
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oh. ok. you still lookin for a job?
lol i was useing a dry zex kit probably why i getting a wet kit soon
yep, still looking for a job.
im using a dry zex kit as well. i was just trying to calibrate the wot switch, and for some reason its not "learning". ive got the power, ground, and switch wired up just like before. to set the wot point, you are supposed to turn "on" the car (not start), flip the switch to on, and the light should go to red......but evertime i switch the switch on, the zex box clicks kinda like the solenoid or something....idk what the problem is. the first time i hooked it up everything was fine.
im using a dry zex kit as well. i was just trying to calibrate the wot switch, and for some reason its not "learning". ive got the power, ground, and switch wired up just like before. to set the wot point, you are supposed to turn "on" the car (not start), flip the switch to on, and the light should go to red......but evertime i switch the switch on, the zex box clicks kinda like the solenoid or something....idk what the problem is. the first time i hooked it up everything was fine.
stealthy said:
ok that happend to me when i installed it to on my s**t lol. i called the bitchs up and they said i didnt have enough volts going to the box and or a bad ground. check your power supply.