96romaCX CIVIC hatchback BUILD THREAD
- Thread starter 96romaCX
- Start date
Thanks broski! Everyone is doing great work lately so I decided to get serious again and get off my lazy butt.
After I returned from the salvage yard, I set up another detail for tomorrow, and plugged my phone up since it was about to die. The. Halo'd it up online while it was charging 
.
After it finished I went to the store and picked up some brake cleaner and a can of grizzly, put the hatch on jack stands and got busy. I removed my drum covers and cleaned the front and rear brakes, broke out my new oem hardware and started to replace the crap the previous owner threw in. I beleive my car was stolen once and stripped cause everything on it doesn't match up, the y7, some panels, and the entire suspension (before hand).
New oem freshness compared to rigged crap.
After finishing that up, I went around and tourqed all of my suspension bolts to spec, while looking for any problems that could be causing the poping during almost full lock turning. I removed the steering column cover and inspected the universals and bolts and they were fine, so I double checked everything, that's when I found my problem. The passengers side upper ball joint. The castle nut didnt have a pin in it, and it had backed off a 1/4"
I'm glad I double checked l, neglected that would have been very bad. Well I tried to Tourqe it back but the whole assembly was turning, so I googled the problem and found on a forum that you need to compress the upper control arm by putting a jack under the knuckle and a block of wood above the control arm, compress it a few inches to back the nut off. After I finally got it off, I cleaned the threads and saw blockade in the cotter pin sleeve. The person before broke the pin off inside it. I used a 1/16 drill pit to clear the debri from the sleeve and tourqed it back down and used a slightly beefier pin than stock.
Finally I rotated my tires before putting everything together, put the car on the ground, re tourqed my lugs and test drove it.
No more poping, and slightly firmer and more responsive steering. I guess the poping was the a arm traveling when the suspension was compressing and turning.
Finally I cleaned up everything and broke the seized nuts loose on the ex lca's I bought this morning to get them apart for cleaning and bushing removal.
I had a lot of fun today, and now a peice of mind I won't die on my way to work. Small, but indeed progress. Thanks for tuning in!
. After it finished I went to the store and picked up some brake cleaner and a can of grizzly, put the hatch on jack stands and got busy. I removed my drum covers and cleaned the front and rear brakes, broke out my new oem hardware and started to replace the crap the previous owner threw in. I beleive my car was stolen once and stripped cause everything on it doesn't match up, the y7, some panels, and the entire suspension (before hand).
New oem freshness compared to rigged crap.
After finishing that up, I went around and tourqed all of my suspension bolts to spec, while looking for any problems that could be causing the poping during almost full lock turning. I removed the steering column cover and inspected the universals and bolts and they were fine, so I double checked everything, that's when I found my problem. The passengers side upper ball joint. The castle nut didnt have a pin in it, and it had backed off a 1/4"
I'm glad I double checked l, neglected that would have been very bad. Well I tried to Tourqe it back but the whole assembly was turning, so I googled the problem and found on a forum that you need to compress the upper control arm by putting a jack under the knuckle and a block of wood above the control arm, compress it a few inches to back the nut off. After I finally got it off, I cleaned the threads and saw blockade in the cotter pin sleeve. The person before broke the pin off inside it. I used a 1/16 drill pit to clear the debri from the sleeve and tourqed it back down and used a slightly beefier pin than stock. 
Finally I rotated my tires before putting everything together, put the car on the ground, re tourqed my lugs and test drove it.
No more poping, and slightly firmer and more responsive steering. I guess the poping was the a arm traveling when the suspension was compressing and turning.
Finally I cleaned up everything and broke the seized nuts loose on the ex lca's I bought this morning to get them apart for cleaning and bushing removal.
I had a lot of fun today, and now a peice of mind I won't die on my way to work. Small, but indeed progress. Thanks for tuning in!
How much of that grizzly did u go through during that adventure?
SiR.Huey
New Member
pics will come soon just might start a slow build like a few others and ill try to post pics a tad more frequent than i build haha. just working on the fitment. oh and there is no way to stay slammed and keep the plastic well in the fenders with a 15x8 unless you have like no tire at all. or just don't dump it.however the rear fender pull for me is giving some trouble. something will pop up soon so be on the look out.
Yo I finally created my own account and started a build thread. I posted from my brother's account, Blakej8 before and told you how good the F&F type 1's were and SiR lip. I subscribed to you, so good luck with your build keep it up man!
Kick ass bro! Thanks for following!
your cool. I'd hang out with you if you lived close to me.Thanks man, its coming along slowly but surely.
Got the old bushings out of the lca's, now my dad is going to take them to work Saturday and bead blast them for me at work. He's the manager of the composites shop at Timco aviation. He was in the Air Force for 22yrs, and is a master fabricator. Needless to say I had a plethora of tools to borrow to make the removal as painless as possible. My brother and I drilled the bushings out, then pressed the cores out using a couple sockets and the vice. Took a saws all and cut an 1/4 strip out of the sleeves, then once we tapped the cut strip out we banged the sleeves out with an air hammer. After we de-burred the lca bushing sleeves with a 90 degree die grinder.
After stripping it its a coat of primer and paint and the. The new bushings. After some researching I'm planning on using the eibach anti roll front and rear kit for the hatch.
After stripping it its a coat of primer and paint and the. The new bushings. After some researching I'm planning on using the eibach anti roll front and rear kit for the hatch.
So I'm also considering either the buddy club spec 2 or buddy club pro spec exhaust systems.. I plan to finish the swap before December and get another dd, and I want an aggressive exhaust system, but don't want to be heard from miles away, maybe just a mile lol.
Any input is very welcomed!
Any input is very welcomed!
So I'm also considering either the buddy club spec 2 or buddy club pro spec exhaust systems.. I plan to finish the swap before December and get another dd, and I want an aggressive exhaust system, but don't want to be heard from miles away, maybe just a mile lol.
Any input is very welcomed!
Any input is very welcomed!
SiR.Huey
New Member
From what I know the buddy club spec 2 is that it is pretty loud almost straight pipe like with a special muffler design. You could ask crash! all about the exhaust too. She had one on a single cam and her swap started with it, then she changed it. But you also said its not gonna be your daily so it could be pretty fun too. I like the look of them.
I like the buddy club, but would only recommend it for a non-daily. It's pretty loud 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ruYRTdB4u5I
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ruYRTdB4u5I
I love the look and how nasty they sound when you drive hard, but I think that this system was just a thought. I'm hopefully getting an obd1 b16a, and running a test pipe, I called the guy recently and he can still hook me up with an emissions pass. So I figured that would be way too loud and draw unecissary attention to my vehicle.
Yeah that sounds so nasty though!!! It that exhaust gives the impression that your car is tearing asphalt up when takes off!I like the buddy club, but would only recommend it for a non-daily. It's pretty loud
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ruYRTdB4u5I