haha I was gonna do a blue one but decided not to , I want to replace my gauge bulbs with LEDs as well but that might be a job I'll tackle later on
Soon2bsick Vtec
- Thread starter soon2bsick
- Start date
i need two more amber bulbs and to get rid of the splatter and ill love my cluster. kevlar and orange needles i love
I think I'm just going with cool white for my gauges , but I haven't decided... I'm not a fan of super bright gauges anyways
thanks, I like these better than the NGK. I don't notice a big difference with NGK as I do with these, plus they're cheaper. I did a lot of reading first, and still found myself confused about which wire but after a little more searching I figured it out. Unfortunately I got the wrong size tap in clips so I have to wait until tomorrow to actually hook it up.
Destructionnn
Felt destructive today, I was really bored.
instead of painting my rear passenger door panels today I decided to pull out all the plastics in the car, (cept the front that was already painted)
fairly easy job, nothing broken
some are tan... some are gray
ECU pulled out to do vtec light mod.
I'm thinking that since I already have all the plastics pulled, and I don't want to do it again.. that I should go ahead and attempt to pull the headliner out and replace it. It "sounds" easy, but I think the sun roof is going to be a pain. I found a write up on it so maybe that will help, might get started on taking the headliner out tomorrow and wait to paint all these plastic pieces for a few days
Felt destructive today, I was really bored.
instead of painting my rear passenger door panels today I decided to pull out all the plastics in the car, (cept the front that was already painted)
fairly easy job, nothing broken
some are tan... some are gray
ECU pulled out to do vtec light mod.
I'm thinking that since I already have all the plastics pulled, and I don't want to do it again.. that I should go ahead and attempt to pull the headliner out and replace it. It "sounds" easy, but I think the sun roof is going to be a pain. I found a write up on it so maybe that will help, might get started on taking the headliner out tomorrow and wait to paint all these plastic pieces for a few days
you mihgt as well paint the plastics and let them dry. otherwise they are just sitting there. and definately do the headliner awhile. half the work is done already. dont forget the plastic on top of the rear window.
While the ecu is out, run the sub wire too
While the ecu is out, run the sub wire too
Damn, you got it all pulled apart, isn't it fun to pull it all out, the fun part is trying to get it all back in, that rear deck has some clips in the back that are a pain to get back in so I got in the trunk with some needle nose & pulled them through otherwise my 6x9's would make the deck rattle. Progress is nice isn't it.
FINALLY got the VTEC light to work,
I've been trying to get this stupid thing to work for 3 days, Tonight I finally gave up on the ECU and ran the wire straight to the solenoid wire, wire wasn't long enough that I cut to tuck out of the way so I tap in clipped it to another piece and First trial (public street, no tag/insurance so couldn't go crazy) got it to about 5700RPM in 3rd gear and no dang VTEC light.
took it back to the house and pulled all the tap in clips off the wires and hard wired everything together and took it back out, BAM 5500RPM VTEC light lit up in all its blue glory. So chances are the 40 other times I hooked it to the ECU it probably would of worked had I just hard wired it in
Moral of the story:
don't buy premium grade wire and then crappy cheap advance auto wire tap ins,
Gonna wire it all better with single shrink clips, Overall it was worth it and actually doing it is very easy if you use the right products. I thought I would have to take out the console or front pieces to run the wire but everything ran easily without taking anything out.
If anyone is interested this is the write up I went off of VTEC LIGHT WRITE UP
My dad seems convinced we can rit-dye the carpet without taking it out or taking anything out (plastics are already out of course) and still make it look good... haven't decided if I believe it or not yet. We'll see
I discovered that the left side of my tach was not lit at all, thought maybe I messed something up when I was messing with it but I moved some bulbs around and discovered its just a bad bulb (thankfully) so I'm going to order some LEDs
Also,
I ordered 4gauge tsunami wire to do the BIG 3 Upgrade, might wait until I get a new battery in the next couple weeks before I actually tackle that
I've been trying to get this stupid thing to work for 3 days, Tonight I finally gave up on the ECU and ran the wire straight to the solenoid wire, wire wasn't long enough that I cut to tuck out of the way so I tap in clipped it to another piece and First trial (public street, no tag/insurance so couldn't go crazy) got it to about 5700RPM in 3rd gear and no dang VTEC light.
took it back to the house and pulled all the tap in clips off the wires and hard wired everything together and took it back out, BAM 5500RPM VTEC light lit up in all its blue glory. So chances are the 40 other times I hooked it to the ECU it probably would of worked had I just hard wired it in
Moral of the story:
don't buy premium grade wire and then crappy cheap advance auto wire tap ins,
Gonna wire it all better with single shrink clips, Overall it was worth it and actually doing it is very easy if you use the right products. I thought I would have to take out the console or front pieces to run the wire but everything ran easily without taking anything out.
If anyone is interested this is the write up I went off of VTEC LIGHT WRITE UP
My dad seems convinced we can rit-dye the carpet without taking it out or taking anything out (plastics are already out of course) and still make it look good... haven't decided if I believe it or not yet. We'll see
I discovered that the left side of my tach was not lit at all, thought maybe I messed something up when I was messing with it but I moved some bulbs around and discovered its just a bad bulb (thankfully) so I'm going to order some LEDs
Also,
I ordered 4gauge tsunami wire to do the BIG 3 Upgrade, might wait until I get a new battery in the next couple weeks before I actually tackle that
Awesome that you got the light to work, I started on my "big 3", just need 4 gauge for the alt to the battery & I'll be done, I'm gonna steam clean my carpets & seats, may make some color changes in the console, good luck doing a dye on the carpets, my buddy did his from grey to black & after a year he had to do it again, started looking purple near the console where the floor mat didn't cover but he also parks the car in direct sunlight always. How many bulbs are there in the cluster, I need to know how many to order.
Awesome that you got the light to work, I started on my "big 3", just need 4 gauge for the alt to the battery & I'll be done, I'm gonna steam clean my carpets & seats, may make some color changes in the console, good luck doing a dye on the carpets, my buddy did his from grey to black & after a year he had to do it again, started looking purple near the console where the floor mat didn't cover but he also parks the car in direct sunlight always. How many bulbs are there in the cluster, I need to know how many to order.
yeah I need to pull a few big 3 upgrade DIY's together to make sure I do it right, most are missing photos and stuff. there are (4) #74 bulbs and (1) #194 bulb. I got mine from superbrightleds.com
you need four of the #74 bulbs that are $1.19 a piece
and one of the #194 bulbs that are $1.39 (because they're 120 degree)
here is a great write up
http://www.clubcivic.com/board/showthread.php?t=59115
I also bought a 7440 bulb for my top brake light that sits in the back window, Went out there tonight and realizeddd it doesn't work so I checked out the bulb and its blown. I bought a cheap LED one (6.99) not the fancy $20 ones cause... I just want it to work I don't care if its spectacular.
thanks man,
I've just been really bipolar about this car lately. I keep wanting to do interior stuff to it cause it's cheap and fun... but theres still body work left to do and a stupid oil leak to fix (think its the solenoid now) but I'm waiting on some money to come in (tax return) so I can get plug wires, new battery, change over to synthetic oils, ect
Vtec solenoid? is that what you mean for the possible leak i know you already did the ring behind the distributor im replacing mine very soon as well. I hear ya on the tax return i got mine already got the megan header ordered front lower tie bar and a few little cheap things for diy stuff. The rest went to paying most of the car loan off only owe 300 on it now and by friday it will be 225.
yeah vtec solenoid, I ordered a new gasket tonight to see if that fixes it. In all honesty its fine and I could just put oil in it once a week and be ok, but I want to run royal purple through it and at $8 a quart I really don't feel like watching it run down my engine. I'm looking at upper strut bars but trunk one wouldn't work out cause the sub box is too dang big, can't wait til I have the money to replace that for just one sub a small open box.
looking at buying one of these next week
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Digital-Tachometer-Shift-Light/dp/B000UO5OMA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1297215733&sr=8-3
They have just the shift light one but I think the digital number tach looks cool *shrug*
That tach looks good, I won't be doing anything like that, maybe a pillar, I may get a SRI instead of a CAI, might work out better for me, That sub box is pretty big, I have 1 12" in a box with a slotted port, it sounds better IMO that a ported or bandpass box, bandpass is good for hatches.
if you want a small box, you need sealed. ported boxes done correctly tend to be twice the size or atleast another cubic foot. I had one 12 and recommended size was three cubic feet
I want a whole new sub system, to buy/build a box for DUAL brand subs would be a waste. They're made for the box they're in...and granted they sound "ok" for something all the way in the trunk they don't do it for me and the size of the box is ridic and bandpass boxes are just for looks not sound quality. I'll be doing a single Orion HCCA 12" with a sealed box hopefully over the summer if the car is where I want it to be by then,
I hope you can get the leak fixed i know what you mean mine dosent even leak close to that much, but any leak is to much for me and i will fix it. I defintly agree spending that much on the oil you want i wouldnt waste a drop. Dual is a pretty crappy brand usally to bad your not in GA man i could hook you up with a system in a made to fit civic trunk perfect with strut tower bar and its a good sealed ported box.
edit- i meant If you where in GA i could get you either a ported or sealed box that was made to fit a civic trunk with a strut tower bar. Thank you to 1sikcivic for catching this makes me sound stupid the way it was lol.
edit- i meant If you where in GA i could get you either a ported or sealed box that was made to fit a civic trunk with a strut tower bar. Thank you to 1sikcivic for catching this makes me sound stupid the way it was lol.
yeah if the vtec solenoid gasket doesn't work then I guess I'll just find the next closest spot,
yeah I was actually surprised these sound as good as they do, but maybe its just the dynamics of the car. I did tweak things a bit to find the best sound, if I leave both back seats down it sounds like crap, If I leave the 60 seat back down it has a blurr in it, and if leave the 40 seat down and they have a thump so it's nicer.
That would be awesome, to be honest I hate that they're in the trunk period. I'm use to SUV's and trucks where I have the sub right behind my seat (I've always chosen sound quality over passenger comfort haha)
anybody have any ideas how I can get a little more hp out of this motor, I hate watching civic videos and seeing how many more RPM they get before shift time than I do lol I was told header doesn't make a big difference on this motor, but I want to do something with it
yeah I was actually surprised these sound as good as they do, but maybe its just the dynamics of the car. I did tweak things a bit to find the best sound, if I leave both back seats down it sounds like crap, If I leave the 60 seat back down it has a blurr in it, and if leave the 40 seat down and they have a thump so it's nicer.
That would be awesome, to be honest I hate that they're in the trunk period. I'm use to SUV's and trucks where I have the sub right behind my seat (I've always chosen sound quality over passenger comfort haha)
anybody have any ideas how I can get a little more hp out of this motor, I hate watching civic videos and seeing how many more RPM they get before shift time than I do lol I was told header doesn't make a big difference on this motor, but I want to do something with it
you cant have a sealed ported box. its either sealed or ported. sealed boxs have no port