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Nothing but love homie

If you plan on doing K20 and boost, I would save up and do it all at once. Otherwise you're going to spend $ on parts you won't longer need once you go boost, such as intake, header, etc.

Looking good, OP! I'm with Mr. Baker, a few changes and she'll be looking great!

Honestly any performance modifications aren't worth the money with those motors. Unless you plan to spent a lot of an N/A build or go turbo, save your money IMO. A few hundred $ for minimal performance isn't the way to go. Intake, exhaust, header, TB, IM... you could get the most expensive ones...

Probably because car's have brakes, not breaks ;) :lol:

Not going to save that money for eventual repairs on the first one? :lol: Jokes aside, feel better Kelly!

Maybe this thread can help you out? Good discussion going on in there.

As far as I know, no D-series transmissions have a reverse synchro. Which makes sense -- the point of a synchro is to match the speed of the mainshaft to the gear. With reverse, you're not supposed to be moving at all, so there's no speed to match. Putting a reverse syncrho in there isn't really...

It's actually not total BS, though. It depends on what transmission you have. IIRC, it uses the 5th gear syncho set to stop the mainshaft. When that syncho is worn, it mushrooms out - you can still shift into 5th fine, but the syncrho gets in the way when shifting into reverse, hence the grind...

Could be the seal around the dipstick, or, something is clogged up somewhere and the system can't vent properly... like a PCV valve. If pressure builds up, it's going to release via the least path of resistance, aka through the dip stick.

Google translated that to: namamugi namagome namatamago "It's Japanese tongue-twister Yes, it even included just one quotation mark, lol.

Might need a custom pipe made up. You can also clock the compressor housing to point downward for some extra room if it's a tight fit.

Check your oil for coolant as well. If you see coolant in there, head gasket is likely bad and needs to be replaced.

What was the issue? Definitely a bad ground?

Brown sludge? Either that coolant was very old, or you have oil leaking into the coolant. Any smoke of any colors coming from your exhaust?

That was a hell of a game 7!

:welcome: to ClubCivic! Is the Check Engine Light (CEL) on? Does the CEL work? If so, jump the service connector on the passenger side dash to grab the codes, which are extremely helpful in diagnosing these issues. Check post 1 at this thread here.

Have you tested both the driver side and passenger side switches? If one of them works, but not the other, the issue may lie with the switch or switch wiring. If neither work, the window regulator could be weak or failing.

I've seen a few times where the wiring to the sensor will rub on the belt and cause damage to it. Check the wiring as well.

Sounds like a synchro issue. You can replace those, but those transmissions are pretty cheap - if you get a known good one you'd be all set. Just be careful where you source one from. Back in my early days here I bought a tranny off some guy who said no issues. Bought it, swapped it in... it...