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If you got it from a dealer, bring it back to them. If not, we might want to verify the slave and master cylinders are working fine before looking into a clutch replacement. Fluid could be leaking from there, or even just from the lines.

:welcome: I'd try to get the price down a good bit. KBB value is around $2500 from a dealer. But if it looks good, runs good, and it seems well maintained, it might not be a bad buy.. if you can talk them down. Any pics of it?

Like the wiper? :lol:

7th gens actually make slightly more power and torque than 6th gens. EX models are the same, though peak HP on the 6th gen EX is at a little bit higher RPM and slightly lower compression. 6th gen: http://www.clubcivic.com/forum/pages/6th-gen-honda-civic-specs/ 7th gen...

Yeah, we have a Facebook page. I've severely been slacking on updating it, though.. last update was this past June. Spooled is right too, social media is the reason forums are dying out. The social interaction on most forums, like OT threads, are severely lacking. I've seen a couple great forums...

Touché lol. Fantasy football earlier this year I lost a game 111.3-110.6... SUPER close. I lost because Eddie Lacy got -1 points due to a fumble :/

Amen to that. I played on new years eve but it's been a while since then haha.. But it reminds me of one night in college, I couldn't play flip cup to save my life on this one round. We completely lost because of me. So in rage I smacked the cup up, it bounced off the ceiling and landed upside...

Yep, it will turn black after a short amount of time. There shouldn't be any build-up or gunk on it, but it should turn black in color from the exhaust gases.

I've owned a 6th gen, and an ex of mine owned a 7th gen. Personally, the 7th gen drove smoother, but I never really noticed it being either louder or quieter. She had noisy winter tires. Maybe @joe7987 can chime in a bit here -- he's a 7th gen owner!

If it doesn't pertain to the thread and it's going off topic, report it. That's why we're here. ;)

Holy s**t! :shock: Peter is alive and not just on Facebook?!?!

I'd say it's pretty common. Over time it gets filled with crap and carbon deposits. I had to clean mine years ago when it gave me issues.

:welcome: I would start by cleaning the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV). http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-forum/90493-d-i-y-iacv-cleaning.html

You can test from the terminals inside the map sensor connector. I may have worded that oddly, I was just saying that voltage to that sensor is supplied by the ECU, so you don't get 5V from those connections, that's bad. 5V to one but not the other would indicate an issue with that wire, 5V to...

If you can, test it again, and test both terminals in that connector. Both should supply 5v individually. Power from these terminals comes from the ECU.

They did, but I believe they switched to indirect TPMS starting with 2014 Civics.

I honestly don't remember. But G101 feeds the main replay for the fuel pump, so if that ground is good, the main relay is good, and the fuel pump still isn't kicking in, I don't think it's a grounding issue. If you unplug the Map sensor connector, turn the key to on II, then test voltage to...

Other than Roxanne I have a 2005 Kawasaki Ninja 500... for sale... lol

Yeah, sounds like an ECU issue. Code 0 either means bad power to the ECU, bad grounds, or a bad ECU. Might as well check your grounds for solid connections to unpainted metal. Pay extra attention to the ground located right below the thermostat housing. Also check the main relay. Check fuses 24...

I would drain it a bit to get it within the levels. It's not bad to be slightly above the level, but too much can cause seals to go bad and can put oil in places unintended. My local forum just recently posted this, a horror story of quick lube places...