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I guess it's called a meter panel, according to the image provided above. I've always called it the instrument cluster bezel.

One thread per topic, please :)

IF it's identical to the 96-00 Civics, it's on the firewall connected to like a 17mm banjo bolt.

Keep in mind that it's also an automatic D15 motor. That's like 102hp, so don't expect it to take off like a rocket lol

If you keep your y7 manifold you can reuse your y7 throttle body. But I would recommend swapping to a y8 manifold and TB, they flow much better! That's what I did when I did my mini-me swap. You can still keep your IACV you just need to do some rewiring to go from 3 to 2 wires. You'll also need...

Depends. The D16Y8 intake manifold is better than the D16Y7 one. If you plan on swapping that with the head you'll need to replace the intake (if you run the car before boosting it). You'd need to swap the throttle body as well I believe. There is some wiring involved as well, relating to the...

Is it bad when the best looking vehicle on a Civic website isn't even a Civic? :lol:

This is incorrect. When you end up going turbo you won't use an intake, you'll have chargepiping from the throttle body to the intercooler and from there to the turbo. A D16y8 head swap onto a D16Y7 is known as a mini-me swap. You're essentially bolting on 30hp and gaining vtec as well.

My ODB2 reader cost me $23. $13 ODB2 wifi dongle and a $10 iOS app, ODB Fusion. Works excellent. Can do logging with it and get real time sensor feedback, etc. I love it.

Did you follow this process: http://www.clubcivic.com/forum/threads/how-to-y7-to-y8-intake-manifold-swap.59172/ There's more than just bolting it up.

Yeah, a common issue with these cars is the gas cap CEL too. Seals around the caps are garbage. I always tighten it an extra click or two because I've had my CEL pop on 3-4 times related to the cap. I hope it's not an O2 sensor for your sake, or at least not the primary one... they're wideband...

Progress are good, I was going to get those from Justin here on the CC store but they were backordered or something. So I ended up going with Tein, but I'm very satisfied with them. RPF1's looks good! But everyone and their mother has them on their RSX haha.

@Tig. Nice pick up! Looks real clean! Plans? Also, the first major Type R accident has occurred. In Rochester! Owner of a Honda dealership kept this car for himself. He ended up hitting a deer, which is not surprising as I almost did on Saturday night myself. Poor car lol

You can also rent fender rollers at some parts stores

I have an Invidia N1, it's loud when the engine is cold. VERY quiet when idling. Gets a bit loud when I get on it, especially when I hit vtaks. I hear the Invidia Q300 is a step up from the N1, just a bit quieter.

Have you checked the throttle plate as suggested earlier? Is it fully closed?

Do you feel any dragging? After a drive, is your wheel hot the touch, or do you hear any cooling down noise (like a clicking/thumping sound) from the wheels? Want to make sure you don't have sticking calipers which can warp the rotors due to excessive heating / cooling.

Get a can of compressed air, like the ones you use on computer equipment, and spray into the CD player slot. It's possible that you got some dust in there or something that's interfering with the sensor that detects CD's.

You've assumed wrong. @boofoo is one of the most knowledgeable guys on this forum. Just because you have a new gasket does not mean it was installed correctly. Did your TPS come with the DPFI setup? Are you sure that it's a DPFI TPS? A standard TPS will not work.

I would top off with fresh gas. Does the issue occur when the engine is cold, warm, or both? I would also check your grounds and clean them if they appear to be rusty or corroded.